Weed And Seed For Bermuda Grass

What is Bermuda grass and how is it hurting your lawn? We break it down in this simple guide. Depending on where you live and how you use your lawn, Bermudagrass may be a leading choice for you. Weed control can be difficult in any type of lawn grass. Learn how to properly control weeds in your bermuda grass lawn.

Bermuda grass: How to keep it from taking over your lawn

Tips on keeping unwanted Bermuda grass under control

Cynodon dactylon, better known as Bermuda grass, is a perennial warm-season grass that is widely used as both lawn grass and pasture grass. Its toughness, adaptability, and creeping growth habit attract either appreciation or disdain from the homeowners, gardeners, landscapers, and others who plant it or are invaded by it.



What You Need

Systemic lawn herbicide with fluazifop or sethoxydim

Garden spade or sod cutter

Is Bermuda grass a grass lover’s dream?

Bermuda grass can help you achieve a lush green lawn. Here are the benefits of Bermuda grass:

  • It quickly grows from seed or sod into a dense lawn that is capable of out-competing weeds and is highly tolerant of insect and disease pests.
  • It grows roots deep underground to access hard-to-reach moisture and simply goes dormant in the driest of weather.
  • It thrives in heat and is drought tolerant.
  • Bermuda grass is extremely resilient. If a large patch is damaged, it has an incredible ability to regenerate from the deep, creeping roots, and via mower clippings that land on bare soil and then root in. This kind of tough resiliency makes it a grass lover’s dream, but the adjacent landscape and adjacent landowners may disagree.

The collateral damage it causes

Ornamental beds, vegetable gardens, paved patios, driveway, and other lawns adjacent to Bermuda lawns are at risk of invasion. Bermuda grass can spread quickly, but here’s how to keep it in check:

Step 1: To maintain it, do regular mechanical and chemical edging during the growing season when it creeps out of bounds above and below ground.

Step 2: Use lawn edgers to sculpt crisp edges along driveways and lawn borders

Step 3: Follow behind with glyphosate weed killer to prevent Bermuda shoots from sprouting in mulched areas, pavement cracks, and other non-lawn areas.

If you’re a neighbor of a Bermuda grass owner, and you don’t wish to grow it, you must contend with it. A real challenge ensues, since the chemical controls, both conventional and organic, that kill Bermuda grass, also kill other types of lawn grass. Getting rid of Bermuda grass isn’t an easy task, and it’s a task you never finish.

Are salt and vinegar an eco-friendly way to kill Bermuda grass?

Salt and vinegar are more eco-friendly than pesticides, although they aren’t as eco-friendly as other solutions. This is how to use salt and vinegar to get rid of Bermuda grass:

Step 1: Use a mixture of 1 cup salt and 1 gallon of vinegar to kill any plant. This is so effective that if it soaks into your soil, nothing will grow there for a long time.

Step 2: It’s safe to spray a light mist over the plants. Only a few drops will make their way into the soil, but such small quantities will neutralize and disperse quickly.

Step 3: Don’t dispose of any leftover mixture by pouring it into the soil.

Step 4: Wear safety gear when mixing and applying vinegar as an herbicide, as vinegar is acidic, which kills plants, but it can also cause chemical burns on the skin in high concentrations.

You should use the salt and vinegar solution to kill broad areas. The acidity of salt and vinegar kills any plant when applied, but not just Bermuda grass. So keep in mind that you need to target the Bermuda grass specifically, but this can be tedious.

Can you dig up Bermuda grass?

You can dig up Bermuda grass, but it can be difficult. Digging it up is only the best solution if the grass is in a small area and no other options are available. Bermuda grass doesn’t just have its roots underground, but it also has rhizomes. Rhizomes are thick, underground stems that grow sideways. New grass shoots can grow from them, so if the rhizomes are left behind, your work will have been for naught.

Here’s what to do when digging up Bermuda grass:

Step 1: Dig at least 6 inches down to make sure you’re getting the entire plant.

Step 2: Be on the lookout for anything that looks like ginger or an oddly shaped potato.

Think control not eradication

Owners of zoysia, centipede, and fescue lawns often battle Bermuda grass. Unfortunately, it is impossible to kill Bermuda grass organically when it invades another type of lawn without killing both types of grass. Organic herbicides only “burn out” the foliage, leaving the energy stored in the roots to regenerate new foliage.

Instead of eradicating Bermuda grass, here’s how to control it:

Step 1: Use a systemic lawn herbicide.

A systemic herbicide will absorb through the foliage and then translocates throughout the tissue of the weed to kill the plant. Also, fluazifop is an active ingredient that kills Bermuda grass and is safe for use on fescue and zoysia lawns.

Step 2: Use a product with the ingredient sethoxydim to control Bermuda grass in centipede lawns.

Step 3: Follow the label instructions precisely, including concentration rates, to avoid damaging the good grass.

Step 4: Scalp your Bermuda grass annually. While this treatment is aggressive and shouldn’t be used on most other grasses, scalping your Bermuda grass is as helpful to the lawn as irrigation and fertilizer.

How to kill Bermuda grass organically: Solarization

It takes patience and persistence to kill Bermuda grass organically, and the following methods are non-selective, which is to say they kill off all vegetation in the area. The most effective ways to organically kill Bermuda in large areas, such as a lawn renovation or preparing a garden bed, are soil solarization and smothering. Here’s how to put solarization to use:

Step 1: Practice soil solarization during the hottest part of the summer. It requires at least four weeks with daytime high temperatures above 85 degrees Farhenheit. Hotter and longer is even better.

Step 2: Mow the grass as short as possible.

Step 3: Rototill the area to a depth of 12 inches.

Step 4: Slowly irrigate with 1 to 2 inches of water.

Step 5: Cover the area, plus a 2-foot margin all around, with a single sheet of clear plastic.

Step 6: Anchor the plastic in place with landscape staples or by shoveling soil onto the entire perimeter (a good seal is required for the best effect).

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Step 7: Leave the plastic in place for four to six weeks.

How to kill Bermuda grass organically: Smothering

Follow these steps to smother your Bermuda grass:

Step 1: Scalp the upper layer with a garden spade or sod cutter. You can rent a sod cutter from your local power equipment rental place.

Step 2: Pile the sod in an out-of-the-way location and cover it with a heavy plastic tarp to decompose.

Step 3: Cover the scalped ground with three or four layers of heavy-duty cardboard.

Step 4: Cover the cardboard with 4 to 6 inches of mulch.

Step 5: Leave everything undisturbed for six months before planting.

After removing Bermuda grass, stay vigilant. This tough grass is capable of reestablishing as quickly as before by roots, stems, mower clippings, and seeds. Learn to recognize it and dig it out whenever you spot it. It’s impossible to eradicate troublesome Bermuda grass, but with constant suppression, you can keep it under control.

All You Need to Know About Bermudagrass

Bermudagrass is valued for its exceptional heat and drought tolerance and a capacity to withstand heavy use and recuperate quickly. This combination of qualities leads many U.S. lawn owners to rely on Bermudagrass for its resilience. But Bermuda’s climate requirements limit its widespread use. Depending on where you live and how you use your lawn, Bermudagrass may be a leading choice for you.

Bermudagrass At a Glance

  • Warm-season grass.
  • Requires full sun and good drainage.
  • Suitable for southern lawns from coast to coast.
  • Tolerant of heat, drought, traffic and salt.
  • High maintenance and nutrient requirements.

Bermudagrass Basics

Bermudagrass is native to tropical and subtropical countries worldwide. The date of its U.S. arrival is unknown, but historical documents reveal it was already established as one of the primary grasses in southern states in 1807. 1 Bermudagrass is a perennial warm-season grass, meaning it comes back every year in the proper climate and grows most actively from late spring through hot summer months.

Bermudagrass is more sensitive to cold temperatures than warm-season Zoysia grass or cool-season grasses such as turf-type tall fescue. This lack of cold tolerance limits its use north of the grass-growing region lawn pros call the “transition zone.” South of that region, from the Atlantic across southern states into California, Bermudagrass is a leading lawn choice.

Bermuda grass flourishes in sites with full, direct sun and good drainage. It has superior heat, salt and humidity tolerance. Unlike Centipede grass, Bermuda is very drought-tolerant, too. Though most of Bermuda’s roots stay within 6 inches of the surface, they can reach 6 feet or more in depth. 1 This extensive root system provides more resilience against environmental stresses than other warm-season lawn grasses.

Other Bermudagrass Considerations

Bermudagrass has the fastest growth rate of any of the common warm-season grasses. 1 It spreads by both above-ground stems known as stolons and below-ground stems called rhizomes. An aggressive growth rate makes Bermudagrass challenging to contain, but able to endure heavy use. It recuperates from damage far more quickly than most grasses. As a result, it is the preferred grass for athletic fields, golf course tee areas and golf fairways throughout southern regions.

In frost-free climates, Bermudagrass stays green all winter. However, in much of its growing region, it spends winter dormant and brown. Bermudagrass dormancy generally starts earlier and lasts longer than warm-season alternatives such as Zoysia and Bahiagrass. Southern lawn owners often keep Bermudagrass lawns green in winter with cool-season ryegrass for winter color.

Unlike some warm-season choices, Bermudagrass lawns can be started from seed, giving you added options and advantages. Pennington Smart Seed Bermudagrass Grass Seed and Fertilizer Mix offers improved cold tolerance in a wear-resistant, self-repairing, self-spreading lawn. Pennington Smart Seed Texas Bermudagrass Grass Seed and Fertilizer Mix stands up to the Lone Star state’s climate and weather, with low growth and deep, drought-tolerant roots.

Both these Pennington Smart Seed mixes contain a temporary, cool-season companion grass that provides stability and early color, then fades away as summer arrives. Plus, Pennington’s fertilizer-enhanced seed coat technology speeds establishment and promotes greener grass compared to ordinary Bermudagrasses.

Bermudagrass Lawn Care Calendar

With warm-season grasses like Bermudagrass, month-by-month lawn care occurs on a different timetable than grasses grown in the north. This grass flourishes in summer heat and grows most vigorously in hot summer months. By timing lawn care tasks to complement its seasonal cycles, you can help your Bermudagrass lawn look and perform its best.

The farther south you live, the earlier weed seeds and Bermudagrass awaken and begin to grow. Weather conditions can vary significantly from year to year, so look to your grass for the final word. If you’re unsure about typical frost cycles for your area, contact your local county extension office for help. Then follow this lawn care calendar for a lush Bermudagrass lawn.


Weed Prevention and Fertilization

Prevent new lawn weeds and feed your established Bermudagrass lawn in early spring with Pennington UltraGreen Crabgrass Preventer Plus Fertilizer III 30-0-4. Apply any time before crabgrass seeds germinate, which starts when soil temperatures hit 55 degrees Fahrenheit. In far southern and western lawns, that can be early February or even late January some years.


Mow your Bermudagrass lawn once in early spring. Remove dormant clippings to help prevent fungal disease. Bermudagrass enters active growth once soil temperatures warm to at least 65°F. Mow to maintain your Bermudagrass lawn at a height of 1 to 1 1/2 inches.

Seeding and Overseeding Thin Lawns

The best time to plant Bermudagrass is late spring and early summer, after soil warms and spring frost danger has passed. Bermudagrass germinates best at soil temperatures between 65°F and 70°F. Most garden retailers offer inexpensive soil thermometers to help you get timing right.

Bare Spot Repair

Repair bare lawn spots with Pennington One Step Complete Bermudagrass. Under proper growing conditions, you’ll see results in three weeks or less.

Weed Control and Fertilization

Control emerged weeds and speed spring green-up with Pennington UltraGreen Southern Weed & Feed 34-0-4 in late spring. Wait until Bermudagrass and weeds are actively growing. Wait until at least three to four weeks after application before reseeding treated areas.

Aerate and Dethatch

Bermuda’s dense, aggressive growth often leads to excess thatch. Aerate compacted soil and dethatch Bermudagrass as it enters peak growth in late spring and early summer.


Once growth begins, water your established Bermudagrass lawn so it receives about 1 inch of water per week, including rainfall.


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Mow to maintain Bermudagrass at 1 to 1 1/2 inches. Never remove more than one-third of the blade in a single mowing. During peak growth, Bermudagrass may need mowing more than once per week.


Because of its aggressive growth rate, Bermudagrass requires regular feeding during peak growth. Fertilize with Pennington UltraGreen Lawn Fertilizer 30-0-4 every 60 days during summer.


Bermudagrass is drought-tolerant, but it will go dormant during periods of extended drought. To avoid summer dormancy, give your Bermuda lawn 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water from rainfall or supplemental irrigation each week. 2

Pest Control

Control grubs, mole crickets, Bermudagrass mites and other lawn pests with Sevin Lawn Insect Killer Granules.

Soil Testing

Test your lawn soil every three to four years to confirm soil pH. Bermudagrass grows best with pH between 5.8 and 7.0, but it will tolerate more alkalinity. 2 In areas with overly acidic soil, Bermudagrass lawns need lime to thrive.



Continue mowing your Bermudagrass lawn at 1 to 1 1/2 inches until it stops growing and enters dormancy.

Weed Control and Fertilization

Four to five weeks before your area’s typical fall frost date, feed your Bermudagrass lawn and treat broadleaf weed. Apply Pennington UltraGreen Winterizer Plus Weed & Feed Fertilizer 22-0-14 when grass and weeds are still actively growing.

Overseeding for Winter Color

For temporary winter color, overseed Bermudagrass with Pennington Smart Seed Perennial Ryegrass Grass Seed and Fertilizer Mix or Pennington Annual Ryegrass Grass Seed. Wait until nighttime temperatures are consistently below 65°F. Avoid all weed killers at least three weeks before overseeding.


Keep watering your Bermudagrass lawn with 1 inch of water per week. Gradually reduce watering as dormancy approaches.

Soil Amendments

Amend your soil based on soil test recommendations. Lime restores nutrient availability in overly acidic soils. Gypsum helps loosen heavy clay soil and enhance root growth.

Rake or mulch fall leaves so Bermudagrass gets plenty of air and sun.



Dormant Bermudagrass lawns do not need mowing during winter months. Mow green overseeded lawns to maintain cool-season ryegrasses at 2 inches tall.

Water dormant Bermudagrass lawns only if needed to prevent desiccation during dry periods. For overseeded Bermudagrass, water so that ryegrasses receive at least 1 to 1 1/4 inches of water per week.

Tool Maintenance

Sharpen mowers and clean lawn tools to reduce the risk of lawn disease and be prepped for spring.

Winter Weed Control

Spot-treat green winter weeds. They’re easy to spot against a dormant Bermudagrass backdrop.

Yard Patrol

Keep your lawn free from winter debris, such as stones and sticks.

When your plans call for a durable, wear-resistant warm-season lawn that withstands heat and drought, Bermudagrass may be the perfect solution. Pennington is dedicated to producing the finest grass seed and premium lawn care products possible. We’re here to help you learn, grow and enjoy a lush, healthy lawn.

Always read product labels thoroughly and follow instructions.


2. Patton, A. and Boyd, J., “Choosing a Grass for Arkansas Lawns,” University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension.

Bermuda Grass Weed Control

While it may be hard to believe most weeds blow into your lawn as seeds and sprout the minute they find enough bare soil moisture, and light to grow. This is true for both annual and perennial weeds. Annual weeds sprout, grow, flower, seed and die within one year. Perennial weeds sprout from seed as well, but the weed plant continues to grow and spread for more than one season (even though the top may die back in the winter).

Weeds enter a lawn for one reason: your lawn is not growing well. In fact, two of the most common reasons for weeds in a Bermuda grass lawn are drought and shade. It is not that drought and shade increase the number of weeds or weed seeds trying to creep into your turn. Instead drought and shade cause Bermuda grass to thin, thus offering weed seeds an open space to germinate and grow. Your trouble may be different. Compacted soil, cold damage, insect/disease damage, flooding, steep slopes (causing dry soil), lack of fertilizer, and irregular pH can cause Bermuda grass to thin. The underlying point is that a thick, well grown stand of Bermuda grass is the first step toward “closing the door” and stopping weeds. Even then, most of us will have to employ various weed control measures to keep our lawns weed free.

TIP: Neighboring lawns, woods and adjacent untended areas product enormous numbers of weed seeds that blow into your lawn. If possible, mow or “weed-eat” them to prevent seed formation.

Types of weed control for Bermuda Grass

There are two ways to control weeds in a lawn: as the weed seeds germinate and after the weeds have already germinated. When using weed control products, always make sure the product is approved for use on Bermuda grass and follow the labeled directions. Do not apply more than the recommended rate; it will not give you better results and may injure your lawn.

PRE-EMERGENCE WEED CONTROLS: kill immature weeds immediately after they germinate and before they emerge from the soil surface. Since annual weeds like annual bluegrass and henbit die and return from seed each year, a pre emergence wed control will eradicate them from your Bermuda grass lawn over several seasons. At the same time it will prevent annual and perennial weed seeds that blow into your lawn from emerging. Most pre emergence products are sold in a granular from with or without fertilizer that you spread using a fertilizer spreader. If is important to spread the chemical wall to w all at the recommended rate. Areas that are not covered by the chemical will not be protected. After spreading the product, irrigate your lawn with at least .5 inches of water to activate the chemical (unless otherwise stated on the bag). Once activated, pre emergence weed controls create a chemical barrier in the upper inches of your lawn that will prevent weed seeds from germinating. Do not cultivate, aerate, or disturb the soil after treating your lawn or you will disrupt the chemical barrier and open the soil to weed infiltration. Pre emergence weed controls are usually effective for 2-3 months, depending on the temperature and amount of rainfall.

POST-EMERGENCE WEED CONTROLS: kill weeds that are already growing in your lawn. These products are referred to as “selective” since they are targeted at specific annual and perennial weeds listed on the label. Usually, controls will either treat grassy weeds like crabgrass or broadleaf weeds like chickweed. Choose the weed control spray that best suits your needs. You may need to purchase a spray for each category of weeds. In most cases, post emergence products are designed to disrupt one of the weed’s critical metabolic processes and should be sprayed when the weed is actively growing. If the weed is dormant because of cold weather or drought it may not die. Post emergence products are most often sol in liquid spray. The liquid sprays are very effective when weeds are young and actively growing. Spray on a day when your air temperatures are 60 to 80 degrees and the grass is dry. Avoid spraying during the 4-6 weeks in the spring when your Bermuda grass is greening up. Post emergence weed controls are sometimes sold in granular form that is spread with a fertilizer spreader when the grass is wet. The dry particles need the moist to adhere to the weed leaves.

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Another group of post emergence weed controls are the non selective sprays such as Round-Up. The term non-selective means they will kill all vegetation including Bermuda grass. The trick is that non selective weed sprays are absorbed through plant leaves. During the winter months when your Bermuda grass is brown, you can carefully spray green weed without affecting dormant Bermuda grass. WATCH OUT! Be very cautious and make sure that your lawn’s leaves and stolons have not emerged during a winter warm spell. Even then, spray only the weed and expect some Bermuda grass in the vicinity to be killed as well.

When to apply Weed Controls on Bermuda Grass

When it comes to weed control, timing is critical. Pre emergence weed controls have to be applied before weed seeds germinate or they are useless. Post emergent weed control sprays and granules have to be applied when the weeds are young, tender and actively growing. It is better to be a little early than a little late.

Under normal conditions, a thick, lush Bermuda grass lawn will remain weed free with two application of granular pre emergence weed control (late winter and early fall) and spot treatments of problem weeds with a post emergence weed control spray in mid winter and early summer. Here are two options when trying to renovate a very weedy lawn or if you live near a major source of weeds like an old pasture.

LATE WINTER: Apply a pre emergence weed control when the soil temperature reaches a consistent 50 degrees. This is usually February or early March, when the Forsythia is in bloom. This application will control annual weeds and perennial weeds that germinate in the spring. Make sure the product is approved for use on Bermuda grass and apply at the recommended rate. Do not aerate (core) for 3 months after you apply pre emergence weed control because it will affect the chemical barrier. Irrigate after applying useless otherwise state on the bag. Do not use a pre emergence weed control that contains fertilizer. If you fertilize now, you might stimulate your law to break dormancy during a warm spell, only to be damaged by freezing temperatures.

LATE SPRING AND SUMMER: Apply pre emergence weed control without fertilizer around June 1 to control annual and perennial weeds that continue to germinate into the summer. If your lawn is mostly weed free and weeds do not usually blow in from surround areas, you can skip this application. Use a product approved for use on Bermuda grass and apply at the rate recommended on the bag. Remember not to aerate for 3 months after you apply pre emergence weed control because it may affect the chemical barrier. Irrigate after applying unless otherwise stated on the bag.

Once our Bermuda grass lawn is completely green and soil temperatures reach 75 – 80 degrees begin treating weed outbreaks with a post emergence weed control spray approved for use on Bermuda grass. Do not spray weed control during March/April when your Bermuda grass is turning green since it can harm your lawn. Most sprays should be used when the air temperature is 60-80 degrees (check the product label) and weeds are young and tender. If you wait another month or two, weeds will be older tougher and require repeated applications to kill them.

If your lawn is still overrun with weeds in mid-summer, consider using a combination fertilizer/post emergence weed control (granular) when you fertilizer around July 1. Follow the labeled instructions and make sure your lawn is wet when you broadcast the product.

EARLY FALL: Wait until soil temperatures drop to 70 degrees to apply pre-emergence weed control (without fertilizer) to your Bermuda grass lawn. This is usually around September 15 in the upper South and October 15 in the lower South. If you think you will forget, you can apply pre-emergence weed control when you fertilize in early September but you will be sacrificing some effectiveness. This application will control weeds like annual bluegrass and henbit to germinate in the fall and winter.

Either way, make sure the pre emergence product is approved for the Bermuda grass and apply at the rate recommended on the bag. Irrigate after apply in unless otherwise stated on the bag. This application will last 2-3 months.

WINTER: Apply a pre emergence weed control without fertilizer 2 – 3 months after your fall application (optional application). This is usually in late November/early December. If your lawn is mostly weed free and weeds do not usually blow in from surrounding areas, you can skip this application. Use a product approved for use on Bermuda grass and apply at the rate recommended on the bag. Remember not to aerate (core) for 3 months after you apply pre emergence weed control because it may affect the chemical barrier. Irrigate after applying unless otherwise stated on the bag.

During the winter, treat winter weed outbreaks as soon as you see them (young weeds will die quickly) with a post emergence weed control spray approved for use on Bermuda grass. This is usually in January and February. Most of your problems this time of year will be from annual weeds like annual bluegrass and henbit. Spray on a warm afternoon (approx 60 degrees) when the weeds are young and actively growing. It may take two applications to kill them. You can also spray during the winter with a non selective weed control like Round-Up. Make sure your Bermuda grass is completely brown and spray only the leaves of the weeds. Be very careful because Bermuda grass stolons and leaves can emerge prematurely during a winter warm spell. With both types of sprays, read the product label for specific instructions.