Weed And Feed Or Grass Seed First

Most Pre Emergent weed killer prevents grass seed from sprouting. Need to reseed your lawn while preventing weeds like crabgrass? Learn this BEFORE you apply weed preventer… It might seem like an easy task, but learning how to plant grass seed correctly is essential for growing a thick, healthy lawn. Can I Seed My Lawn in October? Answers From Jonathan Green


Applying Pre Emergent weed killer to a lawn is a common Spring chore. Unfortunately this occurs in the same time frame when we also want to over-seed thin lawn areas, and plant new grass seed in bare areas, or lay down new grass sod.

Weed Preventers ought to be called “Seed Preventers” because they don’t exempt your friendly grass sprouts from the warfare being thrown at enemy weed seeds.

In fact, many weeds can be immune to various types of preemergents, but few grass varieties can withstand any of these chemicals.

So what do you do? You can hope for the best by working around the unchangeable. Every yard situation is different, but knowing a few basic principles should point you in the right direction.

The Garden Counselor’s PreEmergent User’s Guide will lay out those steps for you.

Many gardeners have inquired about their options in specific situations. Let me share some of the approaches we recommend for them.

See if your lawn crisis resembles any of those and offers good news or bad news for your immediate or long-term prognosis.

FTC Disclosure:
If you make a purchase via a link on this site, I may receive a small commission on the transaction – at no added cost to you.



QUESTION 1: When Should I Apply Pre Emergent and Reseed?

I live in Kentucky and last year I power seeded my yard but I think that I was a bit too late. I did get some success, but want to know what is the best time to get a pre-emergent down? I don’t want to miss this window and I desperately want to apply it at the very very best time.

Also, I do have an extra big bag of seed that I have left over from last year. When can I apply that in my yard before it goes weak? It’s been kept in my house for 4 1/2 months. I have about .75 acres and would like to know the kind and amount of pre-emergent to buy.

First, are you mostly concerned about crabgrass? If so, you want to get the pre-emergent down specifically before the crabgrass germinates. In your area, that should be awhile, (written in February) but the only way to tell is by soil temperature.

When soil temps get up to about 55 degrees for 1-2 days, the crabgrass will start to germinate. A few seeds may seem to start before then, because temps vary widely even within a small area.
Soil temps are affected by shade, moisture and closeness to paved surfaces or walls that soak up heat from the sun. Note: air temps are not a good indication of the soil condition.
(Soil thermometers cost about $10.)

If broad-leafed weeds also concern you, be aware that there is some overlap among types of pre emergents. Those tailored for killing crabgrass also kill some broadleaf weeds. Varieties that prevent the largest number of weed species probably won’t work on crabgrass. For all of them, however, the application must occur before germination.

Check with your County Farm Agent or State University Extension program, as they usually provide charts that will predict the typical arrival dates for different types of weeds in your area. The Master Gardeners program may also be active in your locale.

Here is the tricky part:
Most pre-emergents for weeds also will
grass seed from germinating.

The one exception to this is “Tupersan”, also known as “Siduron”.
It can be applied to turf areas of bluegrass, fescue, redtop, smooth brome, perennial ryegrass, orchard grass, zoysia, and some bent-grass varieties. It is not for bermuda grass areas.

The negative sides of Tupersan are a short active life, the price, and limited availability.

  • It is only good for 4-6 weeks, which means you must time your application carefully to get the most benefit.
  • As a specialized chemical, it warrants a higher price. There is no generic version of siduron.
  • When found, it is usually mixed with fertilizer, so you are forced to buy two products. This makes it less practical for a large area because of the extra cost. (And your lawn may not need those particular nutrients at that time).
  • It is hard to find, not being the herbicide of choice in the common garden products that manufacturers send to local stores. Retailers would sell small quantities because they don’t have knowledgeable salespeople to promote the product, and the higher price would let the bags collect dust.
  • The concentrated product (straight siduron, not a combination) may be stocked at professional landscape suppliers or agricultural stores, but in some states they cannot sell professional quality products to “just a homeowner”. You can find it on-line; sometimes at Amazon; usually at DoYourOwnPestControl.

If you go this route, you can plant your grass anytime that is typical for your gardeners in your area. This will also depend on the grass type you use.

If you seed a new, bare area of soil, as opposed to just over-seeding to thicken the lawn, be advised: Do NOT Disturb the soil AFTER you spray the pre emergent.
So you must calculate the timing of your application with that in mind if the area will be tilled or cultivated before planting.

Another “Dimension” To Consider

An Alternate Product, “Dimension” is an excellent pre-emergent for lawns with a crabgrass problem. It has less of an impact on the roots of grass seedling than many other products.

It is a good choice for a follow up application if your crabgrass season is stretching out and you need more protection after the Tupersan wears off.

Dimension is more accommodating with the timing of application. It can also kill young crabgrass seedlings if you were late getting to them (Often effective until the four-leaf stage of maturity).
But the newly planted grass must already be up and growing for a while before you use this product.

I cannot advise the amount you need to buy or apply, as this will vary according to the concentration of the product, which can vary a lot. Read the label carefully to determine this.

A final note, any pre emergent needs to be watered into the soil, (best within 3 days), to get it activated in the soil. Schedule your application to take advantage of a light rain (not a gully-washer) if you are not able to irrigate. About ½ inch of precipitation is usually required.

Finally, don’t worry about your grass seed. It should remain viable without a significant loss of germination rate for about a year. (Much of it will last even longer.) A cool, dry location (maybe a closet, or some garages) is better than a warm storage area for long term storage, but yours should be fine.

QUESTION 2: Already Applied
Pre Emergent. Can I Reseed?

I used Sta-Green Crab Grass Preventer and Fertilizer on my lawn 2 weeks ago. I would like to reseed my lawn, so I bought Pennington Starter Fertilizer and Pennington Tall Fescue Grass Seed to start. Can I do this since I already applied the crabgrass preventer?

The crab grass Pre Emergent is non-selective, for the most part. More than likely it will inhibit the growth of your grass seed if you put it down prior to the end of the time limit listed on the Sta-Green label.

To clarify, do NOT reseed until you are certain that the weed preventer is no longer active.

  • If you put down the tall fescue seed, it will start its germination process as soon as the proper soil temperatures have been reached.
  • The pre-emergent then interferes with the growth process and the grass will not develop past the sprout stage.
  • But it will be dead, not just waiting for a more opportune time to grow.
  • The current status of your lawn requires that you wait before applying the new grass seed so that you don’t waste the seed or your efforts at planting new grass.

Sta-Green Crab Grass Preventer specifies that the product can be effective up to 4 months, and recommends that you wait at least 12 weeks after application before reseeding.

There are a few variables that could affect the actual down time. How heavily the pre emergent is applied, how much irrigation it undergoes, and whether or not the soil surface is disturbed, all can lessen or increase the duration of its effectiveness.

Don’t forget Murphy’s Law — the gardener who wants the crabgrass pre-emergent to last as long as possible won’t be that fortunate… AND… the benefit of a never ending weed preventer will likely go to the one who is most anxious to start planting!

See also  Weed Seed Prices

QUESTION 3: Can I Apply Pre Emergent,
then Lay New Sod?

My lawn has several medium size crab grass patches. I was considering pulling these patches out and then putting down a pre emergent weed killer (can you recommend any?)
Then immediately I want to put down new sod. What do you think? I live in Ft. Myers, FL. The temps in the evenings is right at 60.

A Pre Emergent weed killer can be an important weapon in your arsenal to fight weeds, especially the persistent problem of crabgrass. However, your question points out how important it is to get the right tool for the right job.

Let’s look at the overall nature of the project as you have laid out the steps. Then we’ll identify specific herbicides that are appropriate to your needs, and which products would cause a new problem.

I infer that you are actually planning to put down pre-grown sod, as opposed to planting grass seed (some folks use the terms differently, so I like to confirm). The two different approaches have a major point of difference.

Laying sod will require that you remove about an inch of soil to accommodate the depth of the sod and keep it level with the surrounding area. This will probably remove with it the majority of crabgrass seeds that might be present in that location. Those that will remain will be not likely to sprout, with the thickness of the sod above them.

For this reason, you could do this project without using a pre emergent herbicide.

Yes, you can argue that it is better to be safe than sorry, and you may not want to let a single weed get a chance to live.
Yes, I have seen it happen that the seams where the sod pieces butt together is the likely place where any crabgrass sprouts might pop through.

You must weigh the potential benefit against any potential risk. There is a possibility that the herbicide could interfere with the grass roots pushing out from the cut sod. The new grass plants would not root into the lower soil layers as quickly as they would grow under ideal conditions. This would reduce their heat or drought resistance and overall health.

This hindrance would be a very definite concern with some varieties of pre emergent, and a minimal risk with other types. Your new sod will have the best opportunity for getting established quickly if it is not exposed to any chemicals that can restrict growth.

The other consideration is if you were planning to broadcast the pre-emergent weed killer over the entire lawn area, or just in the bare spots that you need to replant.

Treating the whole lawn is the smart approach for ultimate control, since you can expect that the crab grass seeds are widely dispersed everywhere. They will try to pop up anywhere they can, leaving you with the need to repeat this process time after time.

If this is your intent, then go ahead. Just remember that you must make concessions for the young grass that would not be a concern for gardeners treating a well-established existing lawn.

Which pre-emergent weed killer will be effective and safe for your new sod? Tupersan… (…remainder of paragraph deleted, as it duplicates information from previous questions about this product.)

An alternative would be to wait and observe the area after you sod it, for new crabgrass coming up in the grass and hit it with the pre-emergent at that time.

But Wait! . Isn’t it too late then?

Thankfully there is a pre emergent that also works post-emergent on crabgrass usually up to the 4- 5 leaf stage. Not all pre-emergents will work this way.

You want to get one with the active ingredient “dithiopyr”, usually found under the trade name “Dimension”.

Dimension has less of an negative influence on root establishment.

Be sure to read the label completely to make sure it is acceptable to use on your type of turf, at that time of year, and follow the directions carefully.

QUESTION 4: Pre Emergent Is Now Applied.
How Long to Wait before Reseeding?

I applied to my lawn the Crab Grass Preventer by Vigoro.
How long do I need to wait before I can sow some new grass seed on the lawn? I was planning on using a slit seeder to apply the grass seed.

(Editor’s note: a slit-seeder is a machine with multiple blades that slice into the soil; and it is able to dispense seeds at different rates.)

Let me give you some general concerns to consider for your situation. I cannot be exact since I do not know which Vigoro product you used.

  • It is possible that the active ingredient was Dimension or Benefin, but manufacturers are known to change chemicals without changing the packaging.
  • It is essential that you check the label of the bag you used or go back to the store where you purchased to see the criteria on it.

Different pre emergent chemicals can have a residual effect that ranges from 8 − 12 weeks after application, and even longer depending on the strength of the concentration.

This duration varies according to the amount of moisture that has been received, also the temperature range and the type of soil, and even different varieties of weeds which awaken at different times.

So you wait and wait, and then you might see weeds popping out sooner than the advertised effective date.
You could expect that your grass seed should be able to sprout then, right?
Maybe NOT! Read the full answer, before drawing that conclusion.

An interesting Catch-22/Murphy’s Law factor should be considered in your situation.

A pre emergent herbicide forms a barrier in the top layer of soil where seeds normally germinate. As the sprout grows into the barrier area, the chemical affects the seed or sprout according to the mode of action it is designed for, such as stopping cell division for example.

All preemergents emphasize that you get maximum protection against weed development when that barrier zone remains undisturbed. Any disruption of that barrier (any cultivation of the ground) can furnish a ‘chemical-free’ path for some sprouts to pass through to the surface without getting zinged.

This suggests, in my opinion, that the slit seeder could be a blessing or a curse, depending on your timing or your needs.

  • If you plant too soon using that machine, you risk losing the benefit of the pre emergent barrier and face the possibility of a substantial crop of crab grass which will have the advantage over your grass seed.
  • There is also the concern that some buried weed seeds will be dislodged by the blades and repositioned to a place where they are more prone to germinate.
  • After you slit-seed, if some chemical is still active, the remaining residue in the soil could have a killing effect on a high percentage of your grass seed.

The odd thing to consider is whether this gives you the possibility of breaking the barrier to shorten the waiting period.

  • If you figure that most of the crabgrass has been killed by a certain point, then why not go ahead and plant?
  • If breaking the barrier allows the grass seeds to germinate and develop, then could you get an earlier start on the reseeding, right?

I wouldn’t risk that, simply because most desirable seeds, whether grass, flowers or vegetables, are usually hybrids that are more delicate and more sensitive to chemicals or any adverse growing conditions.

Weeds on the other hand, tend to be naturally tough, more resistant to assault, and more prone to find a way to survive. Plus, crab grass seeds will be at different depths and prone to germinate over a long season.

So if you try to short-circuit the designed traits of the pre emergent earlier than recommended, Mr. Murphy would likely kill the grass and let the weeds through.

So my suggestion is that you’ll get the best results with minimum aggravation by being patient for the entire waiting period listed by Vigoro.

BUT… maybe you’re an Action type of guy, chewing your fingernails while waiting…..

Then try a small test plot first. That will keep you in check so you don’t lose the investment of your seed, your financial investment, and your labor, if the preventer is still preventing.

EDITOR’S NOTE TO NEW READERS: I realize that doesn’t give an exact answer the question for you. How Long Do I Wait before Reseeding?
Is there a single answer? Yes.

READ THE LABEL of the product you used/plan to use. Most of the time it states a specific interval to wait, perhaps hidden in the fine print.
If you don’t see it, contact the manufacturer at their website.
(If they do not have an FAQ section which gives this info, send them an e-mail.)

Don’t guess or assume. Even the same active ingredient used by two products can have different active lives because of concentration or method or season. Be safe. Avoid disappointment.

Go to My Garden Needs: Weed Preventer for a selection of Pre Emergent products

See also  Noxious Weed Seed

How to plant grass seed: A simple guide to success

Lawns are everywhere. Some are highly tended; others, not so much. My own lawn is a mixed planting of three types of turf grass (Kentucky blue, fescue, and perennial rye grass), clover, violets, ground ivy, and various other “weeds”, which is exactly how I like it (and so do the resident honey bees and bumble bees!). Regardless of how perfectionistic you are about your lawn, at one point or another, you’ll find yourself needing to plant grass seed. Whether it’s to fill in a bare spot left behind by Fido or a wayward snowplow, or to install a brand-new lawn after a construction project, learning how to plant grass seed is a necessity for most homeowners. This article offers a simple guide to success, no matter the reason for your reseeding efforts.

There are many different types of lawn grasses. Be sure to choose varieties that are suited to your climate.

Start with the best type of grass for your climate

As a professional horticulturist and a former landscaper, I’ve seeded dozens of brand-new lawns over the years, and I’ve over-seeded bare spots in hundreds more. No matter how large or how small your job is, success always starts with selecting the best grass seed for your region. Different grass species thrive in different climates. There are cool-season grasses and warm-season grasses. The label of the package will tell you which grass varieties are included. It will also tell you whether or not there is a starter fertilizer included. Do not choose a blend that includes weed control products. They could harm young seedlings.

Which grass seed is best for your yard also depends on the amount of sunlight it receives. I suggest contacting a local garden center or feed store and speaking with them about the best options for your region. There are also some useful online maps with all the information you’ll need to choose the appropriate grass species for your growing conditions if you live in the US.

Some brands of grass seed come blended with a “filler” product intended to help you distribute the seed evenly and to act as a protective covering. I personally avoid these products because they are more costly than purchasing a bag of high-quality plain seed and they don’t cover as large of an area.

Preparing the ground for planting

After selecting and purchasing the seed, it’s time to prepare the soil for the planting process. This is a very important step in knowing how to plant grass seed successfully. The tender roots of young grass plants will not grow well in compacted soils so it’s essential that this step be done properly. Here are instructions for prepping the ground to overseed bare spots in an established lawn and instructions on how to prepare for planting grass seed in a large bare area.

Preparation for seeding a bare spot in the lawn: Begin by using a cultivator to remove the dead grass. If it’s a small spot, use a hand cultivator. If it’s a larger spot, use a diamond hoe or warren hoe. Then, dig up the area down to a depth of two or three inches with a shovel or trowel. Loosen the soil and break up any clumps.

To repair a “doggie spot” in your lawn, start by removing the dead grass.

Preparation for planting grass seed in a large bare area: If you want to know how to plant grass seed in larger areas successfully, begin by loosening the top three to five inches of soil. Use a rototiller for the job if it’s a very large lawn area. Use a shovel or hoe if it’s an area that’s just a few square feet.

For a smaller area, break up the soil using a warren hoe or a shovel. Larger areas may require a rototiller.

Whether the area is small or large, after loosening the soil, it’s time to rake it smooth. Use a bow rake or a seeding rake to further break up any soil clods and rake the soil out into fine particles and a smooth finish. Use the tines of the rake to smash any large clumps of dirt if necessary.

After loosening the soil, rake it out smoothly and break up any clumps.

The final step of site preparation for planting grass seed is to water the area well. Putting seed down on damp soil encourages speedy germination and provides immediate moisture to emerging roots.

Wetting the area before planting is an important step in the process.

How to plant grass seed

For small areas, use your hand to distribute the seed, flinging it out over the area. For large areas, use a walk-behind broadcast spreader or a hand-held hopper spreader to disperse the seed. It’s all too easy to put down too much seed, or conversely, not enough seed. When you’re finished, the grass seeds should be evenly spread over the soil surface. They should be about one-quarter to one-half inch apart (obviously no one expects you to actually measure – just eyeball it). If you sow grass seed too thickly, the plants will outcompete each other and their growth will suffer. If you don’t sow them thickly enough, weeds may move in.

In smaller areas, grass seed can be spread by hand. For large areas, use a mechanical spreader.

How to ensure good coverage

Sometimes it’s challenging to ensure ample coverage of grass seedlings. If you are using a drop spreader, I suggest distributing the seeds in one direction and then making a second pass in the perpendicular direction. This two-directional overseeding promotes more even grass seed germination and distribution. If you are spreading the seed by hand, it’s a bit easier to eye, but dropping the seeds from different angles helps.

What to put on top of newly planted grass seed

After the seeds are sown, cover them immediately to protect them from birds, keep them moist, and prevent them from washing away in a heavy rain. There are several different mulches you can use for the job. In my experience, straw (not hay, which can be filled with weed seeds), screened compost, or mushroom soil are prime choices. These products also act as soil amendments when they break down and can improve your soil’s fertility and structure. All three of these options are available from your local garden store or landscape supply center. Erosion mats are another option. They can easily be unrolled over the area with little mess and are biodegradable, though they’re also a good bit more expensive than the previous choices. Peat moss is not a good idea because it can repel water once it has dried out.

No matter what you choose to use to cover grass seed, more is definitely not better. One-quarter of an inch is about as thick as you should go. Compost and mushroom soil are great for covering fall-seeded lawns. Their dark color absorbs the sun’s heat and keeps the soil warm all night long. This speeds germination and encourages rapid lawn establishment prior to winter’s arrival.

After spreading the seed, cover the area with a mulch of straw, fine compost, or mushroom soil.

How long does it take for grass seed to germinate

Some varieties of turfgrass take longer to germinate than others. For example, perennial rye grass germinates in as little as 3 to 5 days, fescues take more like 10 days, Kentucky bluegrass takes 2 to 3 weeks, and warm-season grasses like centipede, Bermuda, and zoysia grasses can take over a month. If your grass seed is a mixture of varieties, know that not all of them will germinate at the same time. To encourage good germination and a healthy start no matter which type of grass seed you planted, it’s critical that you keep the seeded area and the young plants well-watered until they are established. See the section below on watering for more info on how and when to water new grass.

Water newly planted grass in well and keep it watered until it’s established.

Planting grass seed in fall

In many climates, the best time to plant grass seed is in the autumn. The still-warm soil of late August, September, October, or November encourages optimum root growth, while the cooling air temperatures discourage excessive top growth. This is perfect for establishing lawn grasses and promoting extensive root growth. It also makes the turf more resistant to drought and better able to access nutrients in the soil. In addition, in most regions, fall also brings increased amounts of rainfall. This means you won’t have to lug out the hose and sprinkler as often.

See also  Weeds With Spiny Seed Pods

It’s time to plant grass seed in the fall when nighttime temperatures drop down to about 60 degrees F. Keep an eye on the forecast. Opt for sowing grass seed when there’s a day or two of rain predicted.

Planting grass seed in spring

Spring is another great time to seed the lawn. It’s particularly good if you live where springs are long and cool. For spring planting, it’s absolutely essential that you continue to regularly water the seed and the sprouted grass through the remainder of the spring, summer, and well into the fall. Establishment failures are often connected to improper watering. Early summer is another possible time, but you’ll need to water more often.

How often to water grass seed after planting

Water newly planted grass seed daily if the weather is over 80 degrees F. Every other day is a good watering schedule if temperatures are cooler. Prior to germination, wet the top inch or so of soil. But, once the grass seed germinates and begins to grow, reduce the frequency of irrigation but water more deeply. Once your new grass is about two inches tall, reduce your watering schedule to once or twice a week, but water until the ground is wet down to a depth of about three inches.

Once grass is fully established, stop irrigation all together, unless there’s a prolonged period of drought. When it comes to watering established lawns, it’s always better to water less frequently but very deeply. Always water lawn in the morning, if possible, to reduce the chance of fungal disease issues.

Young grass plants can be mowed when they are 3 inches tall.

When is it safe to mow new grass?

Mow new grass when it reaches a height of about 3 inches. Mow high through the first growing season (3 to 4 inches). Make sure your mower blades are sharp (here’s my favorite sharpening tool) so they cut the grass cleanly, rather than tearing it which can create an entryway for disease.

When to fertilize new grass

When learning how to plant grass seed, many people think you should add fertilizer at planting time. This is not a good practice however, because fertilizers (especially salt-based synthetic lawn fertilizers) can burn tender young grass roots. Instead, top-dress the lawn with compost (here’s how) or use an organic granular lawn fertilizer instead of a synthetic brand. You can start to fertilize new lawns after you’ve mowed the grass 6 times.

Now that you know how to plant grass seed, it’s easy to see how doing it right can make all the difference. Follow the steps outlined above and you’ll have a healthy, thriving lawn instead of one that’s struggling.

For more on growing a beautiful landscape, please visit the following articles:

Reader Interactions


What do you suggest for slugs. I have huge issues worth them this summer. I have switched to a battery lawnmower vs. gas. Would the gas have killed them in the past? Anyway I planted triple rye seed this fall and found hundreds of them.I have been going out at night and scooping them up with a spoon and dumping them in soapy water but I never beat them just control them somewhat. Thanks kindly for any advice.

Hi Barb. Here’s an article on our site that discusses what to do about slugs: https://savvygardening.com/how-to-get-rid-of-slugs-in-the-garden-organically/

Annwen mazetti says

I see you don’t compost the soil. Just want to double check that that is ok – do I really only need to topdres?

If your home is new construction then I would suggest working compost into the area. But, if you have an existing lawn, there’s really no absolute need. It doesn’t hurt to add compost prior to planting, though.

Amy Conley says

What do you suggest for moles that are destroying my yard and therefore my grass? It needs to be safe around pets.

It’s Not Too Late to Seed: Your October Lawn Care Guide

Have you been debating whether or not to reseed or overseed your lawn this fall? Well, we’ve got great news: it’s not too late!

Seeding early in the fall is always best, but there is still time to develop a thicker, greener lawn if you seed now. It is always better to do so in the fall than waiting for next spring when weeds and cold weather can hinder your efforts. Despite evening temperatures dropping below 60ºF, the soil temperature is about 5º to 10ºF higher. Newly planted grass seed likes warm soil which is one of the reasons why fall is the best time to seed. In warmer soil, grass roots reach down deep to establish the plant before winter weather sets in.

If you’re reseeding or overseeding this fall, follow these steps:

1. Test and Amend Soil pH

If you haven’t tested your soil pH, do so now. Your soil pH is critical to growing a healthy lawn. If your pH is not balanced, it can cause weeds to thrive, and limit the amount of nutrients available to your grass plants. Cool-season grasses thrive in soil pH values between 6.2 to 7.0. If your pH is below or above 7 add Mag-I-Cal Plus, which comes in both acidic and alkaline versions to balance your soil pH. The calcium in this product also helps to strengthen cell walls and prepare grass plants for winter, while reducing disease potential.

2. Prepare Soil and Seed

Proper soil preparation is key to growing a successful lawn. Although some of the seeds may germinate if you were to simply throw the seed onto your lawn, you will not see great results without preparing your soil.

First, rake the areas that will be seeded vigorously to loosen the soil. Alternatively, rent a power rake or slit seeding machine for the best results. If needed, level the ground. Next, apply the seed with a spreader to ensure even coverage. Be sure not to bury newly planted grass seed more than ¼ inch in depth. Once seed is applied, turn your rake over and gently swish it back and forth to barely cover the seed. Seed to soil contact is very important and enhances germination.

By this time of year, we may experience the first frost, but lawns will still grow with sunny days ahead. The first frost also will kill any existing crabgrass, which is another reason fall seeding is preferred to spring. If you notice bare spots in your lawn after crabgrass has died, you can fill them in with new grass seed.

3. Fertilize

Fall is a great time to grow grass, and thus is also a great time to feed your lawn! An application of Winter Survival Fall Lawn Food is great at this time. Fertilizing twice in the fall, once in late August and once in late October, will keep your lawn green throughout the rest of the year. Winter Survival is not too high in Nitrogen, as excess Nitrogen can lead to snow mold disease problems later in winter and spring.

4. Control Weeds

Another reason fall is ideal for seeding is that there are less weeds! This means that weed control in lawns at this time of year is generally limited to broadleaf weeds. Provided weeds are actively growing and soil temperatures are above 55ºF, you can successfully control many types of broadleaf weeds.

If you only have a few weeds throughout your lawn, spot spraying is most effective. However, if you have a lot of weeds, a broadcast application of Green-Up Weed & Feed is best. Why not give your lawn its last feeding for the season and clean out as many weeds as you can before next year?

Note: Do not apply weed control for at least four weeks after seeding. If you do, it will hurt the new seedling’s development. Before four weeks or up until the second mowing the new grass will not be able to handle the effects of the herbicide.

5. Mow

One last tip before you go: keep mowing your lawn as long as it needs it into late fall! Be sure your mower blades are sharp and in good working order. You can leave clippings on the lawn provided they are not wet or developing clumps which may kill existing grass.

In conclusion, it is not too late to seed your lawn in October and it always better to seed a lawn in the fall, than waiting until next spring. Wondering why? Check out our 5 Reasons It’s Best to Seed in The Fall blog post!