Another reason the P,K figures are higher than maybe expected is due to
a bit of trickery on the fertilizer labels of commercial products.
As a result of a phenomenon involving growers’ increasing predisposition
for urinating on their plants, I’ll take a minute to touch on this.
Basically, urea nitrogen CAN be a good source of Nitrogen, but I don?t
advise this indoors in small containers. There are too many variables to
consider and monitor.
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*Basic Elements and Nutrient Balance*
If you use piss and are happy with results, you’re likely an expert or
just damn lucky. Knock yourself out. but wouldn’t advise it. If you
insist on the golden shower, I understand that pine bark helps to
facilitate the nitrification process making ammonium nitrogen available
(Side note, many growers refer to N-P-K as macronutrients while
referring to the others as micronutrients. This gives the impression
that they aren’t as important. While its true that most organics and
some commercial soils have ample micronutrients. Ca, Mg in particular
usually need to be added, hence the distinction as SECONDARY nutes.
Sulfur often comes through various salts, so don?t worry as much. The
micronute ratios are so small that variances aren’t very significant in
terms of maximizing yield or quality. As long as you have some in there
you’re good. and its pretty hard to OD on most micronutes as long as
you aren’t pouring it on!)
PHOSPHATE ROCK 0-3-0 has about 30% TOTAL available P, but only 3%
available, in p2o5 form, in the FIRST YEAR. and that means about 1.3%
ITS ROCK. it takes FOREVER to provide nutes.
Keep in mind, as you become more familiar with salt fertilizers, you
will find a myriad of products and combinations. For example, POTASSIUM
NITRATE is highly soluble and provides TWO key elements! K-45%, N-12%.
The only reason I’d avoid it is because you’d have to supplement with
more N during veg state anyway. and its high salt which leeches easy.
There are other salt sources, but they almost all contain too much
ammoniacal nitrogen. I use fish emulsion which is NOT a salt fertilizer!
The N figure is straight forward because N comes from organics or
salts. almost NEVER in mineral forms, but because P and K come in some
degree of rock/mineral form, much of it isn’t immediately available for
uptake by root system because the nutrients aren’t in ionic form.
Therefore, the label figures actually represent the amount of P2O5 and
K2O (NOT the amount of P,K) available in the FIRST year.
PHOSPHORIC ACID is about 0-45-0 and 100% soluble.
SuperPhosphoric Acid is 0-70-0 and 100% soluble. need I say these are
GrowFAQ : *ChristianKungFu – Basic Elements and Nutrient Balance (long)* Added by: snoofer Last edited by: snoofer Viewed: 256 times Rated…
Phosphorus tends to increase the number of flowers, while Potassium helps increase the bulk/weight of flowers. Be careful, though because going overboard with either one can burn your plants!
Now that you understand the basics, are you ready to learn how to figure out the best marijuana nutrients for your setup?
- Better Smell & Taste to Buds – Many growers believe organic-based nutrient systems will create the most fragrant and “smoothest” buds. Some of the best benefits to smell and taste seem to come from using composted soil that’s been amended with nutrients from natural sources. This creates a living soil with colonies of beneficial microorganisms and is often associated with a bolder taste and smell in buds. However, watering your plants with liquid nutrients that just happen to be organic will likely not get the same level of results.
- More Natural – Especially when growing in a living soil, you’re creating a home for your roots that is as close to nature as possible (only better because you’re making sure your plant gets everything it needs!)
- Not for Hydro – Organic nutrients are not a good choice for hydroponic systems because any organic matter can cause unwanted stuff to grow in your reservoir. Let me just say this, as of yet, I’ve never seen organic hydroponics go well for someone, though I wouldn’t mind being proven wrong 😉
From a grower: “Botanicare KIND is like the opposite spectrum [of the Botanicare Pure Blend series]. The Base is just Nitrogen and Calcium. Grow and Bloom both have most of the minerals in them, along with things like sea kelp! The Bloom is also 0-6-6. Grow at 2-2-4. So quite literally you can call the shots on Nitrogen and Calcium. That level of control hasn’t been around a great deal in our market. For the savvy grower this is a pretty nice tool.”
Very concentrated, less is more. “Grow Big” & “Tiger Bloom” provide most of the major nutrients your cannabis needs, while “Big Bloom” has many micronutrients and beneficial compounds that help nutrient uptake and root health. This trio works extremely well by itself, just follow the feeding schedule (here’s a PDF, here’s a JPG) from Fox Farms.
- Nutrient burn – nutrient burn causes tips of leaves and edges of buds to appear burned. It isn’t a huge deal but doesn’t look as pretty, especially if it gets bad enough to spread to your buds.
- Random nutrient deficiencies and lockout
- Buds don’t grow as big as they could have in the flowering stage
- Too high levels of nutrients may cause buds to have an unpleasant “chemical” taste
What's the "best" cannabis nutrient system? There are literally thousands of choices! Learn what to look for and get examples of great marijuana nutrients.